Friday, 31 May 2013

Day 76. Tarbert by Scourie. I have not been able to access the internet for a few days so some catching up to be done. The walk to Sandwood bay is 4.5 miles of rather uninteresting moorland and lochs but is well worth the effort. Sandwood bay and my camp at Tarbert. The day had started badly, being the idiot I am ignored the irritating noise from the back of the bike until it suddenly got much worse and I discovered I had lost a bolt and another had sheered off from the back carrier. I was able to effect a temporary repair with cable ties and made it to Rhiconich where I met some better prepared cyclists who were able to remove the broken bolt and supply a new one. After my walk to Sandwood and back I then carried on to Tarbert, arriving after 10 p.m. but still in time to see the sunset over Handa Island. Tired, I slept well. Day 77. Scourie. I was very pleased I made the effort to get to Tarbert the previous evening, I was able to breakfast andpack up the tent on a fine morning and be first in the queue for the 9 a.m. ferry. Just as well because 2 minibuses turned up and the ferry is only a little inflatable. In any list of 'dream jobs' wildlife warden on a beautiful island must figure and the Handa gig must be one of the best. If you like sea birds this is the place to go, there are lots of all different species but veryfew Puffins sadly. I had a wonderful walk round the island I saw 2 lizards and 2 newts which thrilled me more than 10 000 guillemots andI saw a cuckoo being chased by enraged small birds. Incidently, Cuckoos are everywhere up here, I haveheard them all day every day for the past week and have seen them (rather than just heard) many times having never seen one before. Rock stack on Handa and the ferry back. I really treated myself back in Tarbert where there is an excellent restraunt serving local seafood and I had lobsterfor the first time in my life, very nice it was too and the restraunt staff didn't laugh at my desperate attemts to search out every last edible morsel. The hill out of Tarbert is very steep so being full of fine food pushed the bike out of the village and on to Scourie where I camped. Day 78. Achmelvich. What is it about bacon sandwiches? I stopped at Kylesku and some bikers were having bacon butties and I just had to have one, and it was good. The road from Unapool by Drumbeg, Clashnessie and Stoer is very hilly so lots of pushing up and hair-raising downs. Iwas enveloped in a cold mist for much of the way but as I approached my destination clear blue sky was restored (althugh the low cloud lurked in the distance). View from Stoer and sunset over Achmelvich beach. Achmelvich is one of my favourite places ever since coming here with my parents and some siblings over 40 years ago, the white sand beach, the green turf and grey limestone all in perfect proportion and a backdrop of stunning mountain scenery ... magical. Day 79. Lochinver. I will be brief, it is grey and drizzly, no scenery but I am happy to be in the best pie shop in the world (www.piesbypost.co.uk) and will shortly go to chocolate heaven, they know how to cope with lousy weather round here. Lochinver in the mist from the path to Achmelvich. Tomorrow I aim for Achiltibuie. Good day.

Monday, 27 May 2013

Day 75 part 3. What I find truly, midbogglingly, incredible is that I can stand in a field in the remote north west corner of Scotland and post this picture taken from Faraid Head and that people all over the world can see it. Astonishing isn't it. Good night. < a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EHdw5zQiYQAvBnGs-GCpbrIbs8Gkh9xZIJGcZXPDiBb0vqCiSFnOXYT6anMb56s2EinhXi9SYDhfX3ipc4BUhsRfVXefsHsTY_OoqFqI8ukTG4E3Qmj_cc5N_oR0dfFCTjIDTAMf69Ej/s1600/20130527_210021.jpg" imageanchor="1" >
Day 75 part two. Durness. Tiredness, the wind and the attractions of Durness persuaded me to tarry awhile here, I have found a nice cheap b+b so will head for Kinlochbervie tomorrow. I think I have got some pics uploaded of Ben Hope, me on top of Ben Hope and inside of Smoo cave. Good night.
Days 74 and 75. Durness. If someone a year ago had told me I would be capable of cycling 13 miles, climbing a 3000+ foot mountain then cycling another 13 miles before camping out on a windswept moor I would not have believed it. However, yesterday was such a splendid day and Ben Hope looked so enticing this is what I did. The climb is steep and unrelenting but is rewarded with the most astonishing views, I read you can see half of Scotland from the summit and that is possibly true, I could see to Orkney, Cape Wrath and mountains to the south stretching for miles including Foinaven and Suilven. I have just had a tour of Smoo cave and am contemplating staying in Durness for the night or pushing on to Kinlochbervie ready for the walk to Sandwood bay. Good day. Regret still don't seem to be able to upload photos too little memory apparently I shall have to seek advice.

Saturday, 25 May 2013

Day 73 part 2. Altnaharra. It is difficult to imagine there is anywhere better to be than northern Scotland on a fine day. I was on the road for 8.30 and made good progress along largely quiet roads passing through Ardgay, Bonar Bridge, Lairg and Crask Inn. I had read about a fire at the visitor centre at the Falls of Shin and it is very sad to see the utter destruction of the centre and the smell of smoke still hangs round, I believe quite a number of people in the area are now out of work as a result, I hope it can soon be rebuilt. Lairg is a charming little town perched high up on the shores of Loch Shin and has a excellent visitor centre telling the story of the town and surrounding area. The climb to the Crask Inn is very long but so gradual it is not arduous, the Inn is very isolated and lacking in modern comforts but the lady who runs it emerges from the back when summoned by the bell on the bar and supplied me with cake and ginger beer for a mere £1.50. I was talking to a couple from South Africa who are touring the area and I was impressed by the gentleman's story of cycling from Montreal to New York through the tail end of a hurricane. I will not grumble about a bit of wind and rain for a day or two! I am staying in a log cabin behind the Altnaharra Hotel tonight, the hotel is rather posh (catering for hunting and fishing types) but also provides less salubrious accommodation for the likes of common cyclists like me. I have been allowed in the lounge to access the internet. Tomorrow I take the road to Hope and will assess whether or not an ascent of Ben Hope is a sensible option, if not I will aim for Durness but will camp out if I scale the most northerly Munroe (mountain over 3000 feet). Good night.

Friday, 24 May 2013

Day 73. Tain. Met up with my old friend and his cycling group last night for a meal at St Duthus Hotel and had a great evening swapping cycling and football stories. The chap I met yesterday is Dave Higgins and his website is www.coastingroundbritain.co.uk he has been joined by his brother who arrived in Tain at 01.30 due to train delays, they are all packed up and ready to go at 07.30 this morning each with a backpack weighing about 12-15 kg. Glad I am on my bike, wheels are a big help, wonderful invention. I am heading off into the northern wilds aiming for Altnaharra (the coldest place in Britain) where I am told there is no phone signal so may not post for a day or two. Good day. Having trouble with pics again, sorry.
Day 72. Tain. Sing, 'what a difference a day makes when the wind is light and clouds are higher and the sun is bright, I can see for miles and miles and miles.' Lovely ride over from noisy Dingwall (Ross County football club are relaying their pitch and start work at 7.00 and finish at 21.30) on a little road high up the hillside through patches of forest and shared by few cars.The view overto the Black Isle and beyond was super and at Invergordon was an enormous cruise liner (I am told it is the Queen Mary but it could be the Bootlebumtrinket for all I know). Didn't see much of Tain as I made straight for the campsite at Dornoch Firth where I met a chap who is walking round the coast of Britain, I will post a link to his website (I have left the address in my tent). Visited a charming little church that not only has a Pictish carved stone in the graveyard but a portable wooden pulpit! Have also met up with a friend who is cycling the route I am following but in the other direction so we are going to dine together tonight. Had trouble uploading pics yesterday, will try again now. Good night. Chanonry point, Campsite at Dornoch Firth, Edderston Curch and 9th century pictish carved stone.