Friday 28 June 2013

Now had over 6000 views of this blog, I wonder how many different people that consists of, I know it has been viewed in 20 countries.
I have just had 26 hour break in a caravan near Ripon and had some nice walks in-between the rain.
I have been applying for all sorts of jobs from supermarkets to alzheimers society, I am rapidly running out of money so hope something comes up soon.

Impressive wrought ironwork on this on gate.

Wednesday 26 June 2013

I return to the subject of Oyster Catchers.
Those of you who have been reading my blog will know I have had issues with these birds before.
I do not have a grievance against them (other than being woken at 02.30 by one of them) nor do I wish to pursue a vendetta.
My problem is not of the bird's making but of the misleading name they have been saddled with.
It is reasonable to assume that the name given to a bird should be at least vaguely accurate e.g. blackbird (obvious), green finch (obvious) or marsh harrier (harries other birds in the marsh). I have observed over the last few months that oyster catchers consistently and conspicuously do not catch oysters. Most of the time they don't even live anywhere near oysters and even if they did catch an oyster (which is really not difficult, they don't move very fast) they are poorly equipped to open the shell.
From what I can see they would be better named 'night startler' or 'mud prober'. I shall now leave this smart bird withv its neat black and white plumage and colourful bill and legs in peace.
I cycled over to Lancaster yesterday and back this morning, I am struck by how, with practice, my perception of distance, time and steepness of hills has altered. A year ago I would have considered a 20 mile bike ride a major undertaking and would push the bike up hills I can now comfortably cycle up. I fear I may have caught the cycling bug but there is no way I am getting into lycra!.
Meadow near Wray.

Friday 21 June 2013

I have now got a diagnosis for my shoulder problems, nothing more exotic than a frozen shoulder but it still hurts and I am having a cortisone injection next week, will that disqualify me from future cycling exploits?
I have been asked about my bike maintenance routine and I have to confess that I didn't have one. I had a new chain and sprocket set put on before I set off and apart from brushing off accumulations of dirt from time to time and applying wet or dry lubricant every couple of days, I just hoped for the best.
I am making progress with producing a book of my trip but am bewildered by the process of getting from word document to publication without paying someone a large amount of money. Working on it.
Kinloch Castle, Rum.

Tuesday 18 June 2013

Back home.
There really is nowhere quite as comfortable as your own bed so although it was a great experience cycling round England and Scotland, I rarely slept well so it is wonderful to be back in my own bed.
Large pile of post waiting for me 75% of which could go straight in the paper recycling bin.
I decided some time ago that I would not go back to my old job, I cannot summon any enthusiasm to return so it would not be fair just to go back for the money when my heart isn't in it. Now I must find some means of earning a wage before I become penniless.
I have started trying to turn the blog into a book but am a bit clueless about how to make it reality, I will work on it.
A pretty corner of Moidart.

Friday 14 June 2013

Blyth.
Saying goodbye and thanks to my hosts in Peebles it has been another day of getting used to driving with an engine and steering wheel. I have managed to avoid hitting anything and have made sure I treated cyclists with respect.
I stopped in Jedburgh and went on the town walk visiting the town castle jail museum and Mary Queen of Scots house both of which were interesting , informative and well presented, even better they had free admission!
Jedburgh is a splendid little town and well worth a visit.
Then it was over Carter Bar and into England.
I stopped at Wallington
(Wallington walled garden and Mary Queen of Scots house, Jedburgh).
a National Trust house and garden I have visited before but had not appreciated just how splendid the walled garden is tucked away in the woods some distance from the house, this place is deserving of a full day visit, I shall return.
On to Blyth where I get more hospitality from my sister.
Tomorrow I head for home and my own bed ... sigh.
Good night.

Thursday 13 June 2013

Peebles, Melrose and Innerleithen.
The bike has kicked off it's front wheel, loosened it's brakes and is having well deserved lie down in the back of my car.
Meanwhile, I had a day getting my moneys worth from my membership of the National Trust for Scotland and went to Melrose where there a couple of lovely small gardens to see one of which specialises in growing plants suitable for drying and has 70 apple trees.
The other garden had been taken over by marquees for the Borders Book Festival which is being attended by many famous writers including Hilary Mantell, Joanna Lumley and Neil Oliver but I didn't see anyone famous.
Melrose is a very genteel town with smart houses and shops and teashops selling open sandwiches for £9 each! I found soup and roll for £3 then went for a walk by the river and through the town, very nice.
On to Innerleithen and Robert Smails printing works which is being run by the National Trust for Scotland as a working printers using traditional methods of compiling type and old style printing presses, I even got to Set some type and print my own bookmark, well worth a visit.
Good night.
Melrose Abbey from orchard.

Wednesday 12 June 2013

Day 90.
Peebles.
Suddenly my odyssey is at an end. The weather yesterday scuppered my plan to visit the Lake of Menteith and finding myself in Stirling meant I was in striking distance of Edinburgh where Ian could meet me. So that is what has happened and here I am back where I started in Peebles, enjoying a glass of wine on the patio with the wood burning stove keeping us warm and the midges away.
This morning I was chatting with a charming American lady on a tour of Scotland with her daughter and we discussed the perils of driving in a foreign country and remembering which side of the road to be on.
I eventually found my way out of Stirling passing Plane castle (where I celebrated my 50th birthday) and coming to the House of the Binns the ancestoral home of the Dalyell family and was privileged to meet Tam himself who still lives there even though the house was given to the National Trust for Scotland in 1944. The house is splendid and is made more interesting by still being lived in. The view from the grounds over the Forth to Culross, Rosyth and the bridges is impressive.
Then on to Edinburgh where I cycled along with a chap from Teesdale who had cycled roundcthe 4 corners of Britain (Lands End, Dover, John O'Groats and Durness) covering about 60-70 miles a day, seriously hard work.
One last long uphill stretch through Morningside and I reached my destination at Hillend. Journey over.
No punctures in 2100 miles of cycling, no serious injuries or really dangerous incidents and mercifully no saddle-soreness. Relieved.
I shall keep the blog going to report on the progress (or lack of) towards producing a book about the trip, I have only been able to recount in the blog about half of the interesting places, people and things I have encountered, watch this space.
Good night.


Peacock at House of the Binns and Forth rail bridge from Queensferry.

Tuesday 11 June 2013

Day 89.
Stirling.
A day of contrasts, the ride from Killin to Callander was a delight, the route was almost entirely on cycleways through forests and on old railways. After a 3 mile climb through forest where I encountered 2 red squirrels, to the top of Strathearn where the long descent on the old railway high along the hillside over bridges and viaducts before passing Lochearnhead and Balquidder. Here we find a sign to 'Rob Roy's grave' but on reading the information board it turns out to be almost certainly NOT the grave of Rob Roy, what a con!
The ride through Strathyre past loch Lubnaig through forest and more old railway track is great and so we come to Callander.
Here is a busy little town with lots of interest and excellent but overpriced fudge.
It now started to rain and the remainder of the ride was a miserable head down pedal along the A84 to Stirling.
The town did not look it's best in grey wet weather and a prolonged search for accommodation did not cheer me up.
However, after finding a nice b+b I went out for an excellent meal at an Australian themed bar (the seafood chowder was superb) in the company of a nephew who is doing his PhD at Stirling university.
Tomorrow I continue south, perhaps Edinburgh.
Good night.


Pics of 'Mum's tree' and loch Tay, Ardnamurchan lighthouse and Not Rob Roy's grave.
Day 88 part 2.
Killin.
After Mum died we had a lovely gathering at the Maclaren hall in Killin followed by an expedition up Sron a Clachain to leave her ashes overlooking the village and loch Tay.
Mum had for many years been teased by us about her love of chocolate cake so we now have a tradition of taking a piece of cake up the hill whenever we are in the area.
So after arriving in Oban I took the train to Crianlarach and cycled to Killin where after

Monday 10 June 2013

Day 88.
On the ferry.
On my way to Oban having overestimated how long it would take cycle 14 miles (you would think I would know by now after 1990 miles!), so had an hour and a half to wait at Craignure.
My bedroom last night had a skylight above the bed so I was able to watch the sky and it did not really get properly dark  all night.

I have got a piece of rocky road to leave on Sron a Clachan for Mum , it travels better than chocolate sponge and will be a bit of a change (still chocolatey though).
Oban in view.
Good day.

Sunday 9 June 2013

Day 87.
Mull.
I woke bright and early,  packed the tent and cycled off via Glenborrowdale, Ardslignish and Kilchoan to the lighthouse at the most westerly point on mainland Britain where, astonishingly, there are traffic lights on the last bit of single track road.
More amazing views of islands and mountains,     then it was back to Kilchoan and the 11.45 ferry to Tobermory on Mull where I find the place inundated with cyclist taking part in some event so no b+b for me.
As my trip approaches it's end I am starting to really look forward to my own bed, the tent and sleeping bag are ok but I do not sleep well in them.
Tomorrow Oban and Killin.
Good day.

Loch Sunart and Ardnamurchan lighthouse.
Day 86.
Rum.
The warning signs were there, a builders truck and plumbers van boarding the ferry.
Rum was not the oasis of quiet and calm I had expected, building work was in full swing and continued into the evening when the lively younger people got in the party mood and the geese and oyster catchers (them again) kept up the cacophony through the night.
However, I had a lovely long walk across the island without seeing a single deer, goat or horse. Did see a newt and a dragonfly along with great views.
The campsite took on the air of a masked ball in the evening as we all donned nets and hats to protect us from the man eating midges.
Next morning onto the early ferry that took us round Canna, Muck and Eigg before landing us back in Mallaig for 2 pm. Besides seeing wonderful views all round had the excitement of seeing a whale,only 3 brief glipses of a large black hump and dorsal fin but definitely a whale.
I caught the train from Mallaig to Lochailort to save a bit of time and spent the journey chatting to two brothers who had spent a week walking from near Fort William over to Knoydart (accessible only by boat or on foot, they were seriously tough walkers and fishermen and with a great stories to tell.
From Lochailort I cycled over to Salen on Ardnamurchen and camped on the shores of Loch Sunart, a beautiful route to ride and camp but plagued again by midges.

Industrial archaeology on Rum and return to Mallaig passing the Skye ferry.

Friday 7 June 2013

Day 85. Mallaig. I had heard how lovely Plockton is and was convinced it would be all hype but it really is a delightful place nestling in a lush wooded valley with a sheltered bay lined with traditional whitewashed cottages, if even has a railway station and a great many b+bs.
Bathed in sunlight it reminded me some Greek fishing villages I have been to (but without the blistering heat). I think I would like to return here one day and explore more thoroughly perhaps at the same time I complete some unfinished business with Beinn Eighe.
I cycled through Kyle of Lochalsh across the Skye bridge and down the Sleat to catch the ferry from Ardvasor to Mallaig. A glorious ride on a beautiful day, everywhere you look is a stunning view.
I camped on the beach at Morar and am now back in Mallaig waiting for the ferry to Rum.
Good day.
Pics of Beinn Eighe and Plockton.


Wednesday 5 June 2013

Day 84 part 2. Plockton. Got a bit carried away today, not content with a fruitless 3 hour trek up a mountain (part of the Beinn Eighe massif) I set off pedalling and have ended up 50 miles further on in Plockton, said to be one of the prettiest seaside villages in Scotland. I haven't actually seen much of the village, just the bunkhouse at the station and the hotel where I have had a lovely meal. I met up with the cyclist I met yesterday and he had cycled round to Applecross and then over the pass of the cattle which reaches 2000 feet! I decided to take the easier more direct route from Sheildaig to Lochcarron. Tomorrow I head for Mallaig via Skye. Regret am still having trouble with pics. Sorry. Good night.
Day 84. Kinlochewe. I have been wrong twice in 20 hours. First I said in my last post that I was on the lower slopes of Liathach, well I wasn't, I was still on Beinn Eighe. Second, I thought I could ascend (how is this for some gaelic) Sgurra Ban by the Allt a Chuirn path. Well I couldn't. The path starts fine well made and gentle ascent. However, after about an hour of walking the path gets rougher and there is a scramble over a stream, then it gets really stony and eventually loose scree with very hard sharp stones. The last straw was having to start climbing and while I could have got up I doubted the wisdom of trying to come back down. So having got three quarters ofcthe way up the mountain I had to turn round a defeated man. The walk was a botanists dream, I don't know what the plants were but the variety of tiny alpine type flowers of blue, pink and purple was great and the regenerating forest of Scots pine and Birch is claiming back it's ancient territory. I didn't see any wild cats or pine martens but apparently they live hereabouts. Now to have some lunch and consider pedalling on towards Kyle of Lochalsh via Torridon. Good day.

Tuesday 4 June 2013

Day 82. Poolewe. I have no wifi and this device is running very slowly so I shall be brief and there may be no pics. I didn't get the hostel to myself a splendid fellow (John) turned up ready for a few days walking in the area, we hada good long conversation about various things from Scotland to care of the elderly and dementia and various pointsin between and there was a excellent sunset to watch. The ride over to Poolewe was straight forward with the usual ups and downs, I caught up with a young lady who was doing a sponsored cycle ride to raise money for Cancer research and as seems to be the way when you meet a fellow peddler we compared routes, distances travelled and great inclines we have cycled up (it seems the road from Unapool to Lochinver sticks in the mind of everyone who cycles it). I spent a lovely afternoon at Inverewe gardens, they really are splendid and the Rhododendrons and Azealeas were in full glory. Camped at Poolewe. Day 83. Kinlochewe. Another good day cycling on good roads with steady climbs via Gairloch and Loch Maree to Kinlochewe where I am staying in another bunkhouse that I may have all to myself unless there are late arrivals. Met another cyclist who is going all round the coast of Britain in 3 months, he started in Norwich and is going counter clockwise so has a long way still to go. Loch Maree is beautiful and is home to some of the remnants of the ancient Caledonian forest that is now being protected and helped to grow again. I went for a walk on the Beinn Eighe trail that I last visited 40+ years ago (I remember finding a Paris metro ticketon that occasion!) It is a well managed area with good paths and information. I am writing this on the lower slopes of Liathich which is a big enticing looking mountain I may well decided to walk up it tomorrow. Midges have arrived although not too bad yet, I had to use my tick removing tweezers today so am glad I hadn't bought them unnecessarily. Good night.

Sunday 2 June 2013

Day 81. Camusnagaur. Awoke to bird song (including cuckoo) at 3 a.m. and it was already getting light. Lovely breakfast chatting to a fellow cyclist and our b+b hosts before setting off again bound for Ullapool and points south and west. Ullapool seems to have grown and smartened up since I was last here 7 years ago although I note that a Tesco store has appeared and poor old Costcutter has closed. I did some shopping before heading off into the wilds of Dundonnell. It was a steady climb up to Braemore junction where I stopped to view Corrieshallock gorge a truly vertigo inducing experience made more memorable by a party of European tourists who thought it amusing to make the 130 year old suspension bridge over the gorge to sway alarmingly and seemed happy to ignore the notice that no more than 6 people should be on the bridge at any one time. I had another 5 miles of steady ascent reaching 332 metres (over 1000 feet) the highest point I've been on the bike in Scotland. There followed a very pleasant 7 mile descent to my present location at Camusnagaur and the Sail Mhor croft hostel. I appear to have the place to myself so can sleep in any of 8 bunkbeds. I have had a walk up to the waterfalls at Ardessie which are pretty impressive, including having a huge boulder wedged above one of the falls. Tomorrow I head for the gardens at Inverewe which I last visited about 40 years ago. Good night. Corrieshallock gorge and view from Camusnagaur.

Saturday 1 June 2013

Day 80. Polbain. Some of you know I have a sore shoulder that has been troubling me for months making throwing and reaching uncomfortable, today I did a foolish thing in a moment of anger that caused searing pain (sympathy please) down my right arm that took 2 hours, 2 paracetamol, 2 ibuprofen, application of ibuprofen gel and a cold patch to ease it. Some pillock in a pickup couldn't wait a few seconds for me to reach a passing place and squeezed past on a narrow round with a big ditch on the side so I thumped the side of his truck, forgetting in my moment of ire that such an action causes me pain. For a while I thought I would not be able to continue but it has now eased and as long as I do not behave so recklessly again should be ok. After a wet night, today dawned bright and sunny so I was able to pack a dry tent, however, it soon clouded over and it has rained on and off all afternoon. I came by way of Lochinver, Inverkirkaig and Achiltibuie to Polbain and a b+b overlooking the Summer Isles (not looking summery tonight). There was a fascinating exhibition in the Coigach community hall about the men from this area that went to Wyoming in the early 20th century to establish sheep farming. Also, best chocolate cake ever at the Piping college cafe. I have realised that one of the things that makes Achmelvich so special is no dogs, they are not allowed on the campsite or beach and is lovely not having the peace disturbed by frantic calls from dog owners trying to keep their excitable pooch under any sort of control and of course no dog excrement to watch out for (plenty of the sheep kind though). Sorry to upset any dog lovers but my opinions on the subject are what they are. Pics of Achmelvich beach and Stac Pollaidh with gorse (which is in full bloom everywhere here). Good night.