I have at last finished writing up my account of my cycle trip there is a bit of tidying up of my poor grammar and syntax but I have sent a sample couple of chapters to a publisher so we shall have to wait and see if yet another book about a cycle trip is deemed worth publishing.
I have still not found work but have had some interviews and have one for a cycle trainer job coming up.
I am taking part in Settle Amateur Operatic Society's production of 'Calamity Jane' at the end of October and we had publicity photos done today.
No new photos .... sorry.

Time goes by so quickly and yet so little happens.
I continue to look for work whilst finishing off the book and making models.
I find the book is too short so I am revising what I have written and adding more detail.

Model of wall and gate.

Giggleswick show went well I won a few prizes and last week I was helping at the Dales Walking festival in aid of the Jane Tomlinson Appeal.

I will blog again next week.

Last Saturday I went to the Garden Party at my previous place of employment only to discover I was a day early. Fortunately the home next door were having their Summer Fete so I went there instead. 

Maypole dancing in August!

I have finished writing the account of my cycle trip and hope to talk to the printer next week. Still need to have it proof read and to do whatever corrections and additions are required but I feel I am getting there.

I have cycled over to Lancaster a couple of times recently, I am amazed that I can manage a journey that only a year ago I would have considered a major undertaking. I am rarely using the car.

Giggleswick show on Saturday.

Gosh doesn't time go quickly and yet I  don't seem to have much to report.
I am still making progress on the book, am getting the hang of it now and I am happy with what I am writing, unfortunately this means I will need to review what I wrote at the beginning to make sure it matches the rest.
I will still need a few more weeks.
I cycled 48 miles today to Lancaster and back and was delighted to get there in under 2 hours. I am getting stuff together to show at Giggleswick Show on August 10th (be there or be somewhere else). I am taking part in a transport research project at Lancaster University, it sounds very interesting looking at what influences our choices about how we get from one place to another.

Morecambe Bay sunset

Still looking for a job, anyone got one?

So hit, so humid, we British are not used to such prolonged heat. I feel like I am melting and am hoping the thunder arrives to freshen things up.

Gordale Scar

Crackpot Hall, Swaledale.

I have been walking in the Yorkshire Dales, see pics. What a wonderful part of the world. No need to go cycling for 2000 miles there is some of the finest scenery right on my doorstep.

I am getting on top of turning the blog of my trip into a book and hope to have the script finished in a week or two.
I have been offered a relief worker job but am still looking for a permanent job.
The hot weather is not good for cycling in, I am glad I am not pedalling around in this weather.
I am going out early for bike rides before it gets too warm.
The Tour de France is coming through the Yorkshire Dales next year and already accommodation businesses are advertising for the event.
I am more interested preparing for Giggleswick Show on 10th August and the Festival of Walking on 18th August www.walkforall.com

I really now have reached that age when I can go out wearing clothes that are comfortable but not stylish, the children aren't around to stop me appearing in shorts that reveal my white short fat legs and it is great.
I am disappointed that the cortisone injection I had in my frozen shoulder hasn't made much difference so I shall just have to put up with it until it eases naturally.
Still no work but have some interviews coming up so hoping.
Making some progress with getting a book written, fresh approach seems to be working.
I have been over to Fountains Abbey today, every time I go I discover some new little corner I haven't seen before. Wonderful place.

July.

Gisburn forest from Whelpstone crag.
Gosh it is difficult writing  book.
I had blithely thought it would just be a case of tinkering with what I had written in this blog and adding bits.
However, I am all over the place grammatically and I keep going from present to past tense.
I am now trying my third rewrite this time not worrying about about a separate chapter for each day just writing as it comes and having a section for stats, route and distances. Wimbledon keeps interrupting my progress but I'm getting there.
Went for a good walk to Whelpstone crag today, surprised how extensive the bike trails in Gisburn forest have become and how many people are out riding them.

I attended a memorial meeting on Saturday, we were remembering a remarkable woman who had been an inspiration and help to so many people as well as being wife and mother in a kind and loving family. The Meeting House was packed with people all of whom had had their lives enhanced by this person and although I had known her for many years learned so much more about her life from others. I was taken back to my Mother's memorial meeting when again I had learned things about my own Mother and how she touched people's lives in positive ways. It makes me think about my own life and how I might be regarded by others.
I went to a concert by the Haffner orchestra in Lancaster the same evening, they played pieces by Bartok, Holst, Hummel and finished with an uplifting rendition of Beethoven's 6th symphony.
Sunday was spent helping student son leave one house and then go back next day to another house. What fun.
Went to the quiz last night and we won two rounds so will soon be able to go for another meal out!
Still trying to knock my blog ramblings into some sort of coherent prose for a book but it is not easy with my tenuous grasp of the English language (grammar, spelling, syntax, punctuation and tense are all providing a challenge).

Now had over 6000 views of this blog, I wonder how many different people that consists of, I know it has been viewed in 20 countries.
I have just had 26 hour break in a caravan near Ripon and had some nice walks in-between the rain.
I have been applying for all sorts of jobs from supermarkets to alzheimers society, I am rapidly running out of money so hope something comes up soon.

Impressive wrought ironwork on this on gate.

I return to the subject of Oyster Catchers.
Those of you who have been reading my blog will know I have had issues with these birds before.
I do not have a grievance against them (other than being woken at 02.30 by one of them) nor do I wish to pursue a vendetta.
My problem is not of the bird's making but of the misleading name they have been saddled with.
It is reasonable to assume that the name given to a bird should be at least vaguely accurate e.g. blackbird (obvious), green finch (obvious) or marsh harrier (harries other birds in the marsh). I have observed over the last few months that oyster catchers consistently and conspicuously do not catch oysters. Most of the time they don't even live anywhere near oysters and even if they did catch an oyster (which is really not difficult, they don't move very fast) they are poorly equipped to open the shell.
From what I can see they would be better named 'night startler' or 'mud prober'. I shall now leave this smart bird withv its neat black and white plumage and colourful bill and legs in peace.
I cycled over to Lancaster yesterday and back this morning, I am struck by how, with practice, my perception of distance, time and steepness of hills has altered. A year ago I would have considered a 20 mile bike ride a major undertaking and would push the bike up hills I can now comfortably cycle up. I fear I may have caught the cycling bug but there is no way I am getting into lycra!.

Meadow near Wray.

I have now got a diagnosis for my shoulder problems, nothing more exotic than a frozen shoulder but it still hurts and I am having a cortisone injection next week, will that disqualify me from future cycling exploits?
I have been asked about my bike maintenance routine and I have to confess that I didn't have one. I had a new chain and sprocket set put on before I set off and apart from brushing off accumulations of dirt from time to time and applying wet or dry lubricant every couple of days, I just hoped for the best.
I am making progress with producing a book of my trip but am bewildered by the process of getting from word document to publication without paying someone a large amount of money. Working on it.

Kinloch Castle, Rum.

Back home.
There really is nowhere quite as comfortable as your own bed so although it was a great experience cycling round England and Scotland, I rarely slept well so it is wonderful to be back in my own bed.
Large pile of post waiting for me 75% of which could go straight in the paper recycling bin.
I decided some time ago that I would not go back to my old job, I cannot summon any enthusiasm to return so it would not be fair just to go back for the money when my heart isn't in it. Now I must find some means of earning a wage before I become penniless.
I have started trying to turn the blog into a book but am a bit clueless about how to make it reality, I will work on it.

A pretty corner of Moidart.

Blyth.
Saying goodbye and thanks to my hosts in Peebles it has been another day of getting used to driving with an engine and steering wheel. I have managed to avoid hitting anything and have made sure I treated cyclists with respect.
I stopped in Jedburgh and went on the town walk visiting the town castle jail museum and Mary Queen of Scots house both of which were interesting , informative and well presented, even better they had free admission!
Jedburgh is a splendid little town and well worth a visit.
Then it was over Carter Bar and into England.
I stopped at Wallington

(Wallington walled garden and Mary Queen of Scots house, Jedburgh).

a National Trust house and garden I have visited before but had not appreciated just how splendid the walled garden is tucked away in the woods some distance from the house, this place is deserving of a full day visit, I shall return.
On to Blyth where I get more hospitality from my sister.
Tomorrow I head for home and my own bed ... sigh.
Good night.

Peebles, Melrose and Innerleithen.
The bike has kicked off it's front wheel, loosened it's brakes and is having well deserved lie down in the back of my car.
Meanwhile, I had a day getting my moneys worth from my membership of the National Trust for Scotland and went to Melrose where there a couple of lovely small gardens to see one of which specialises in growing plants suitable for drying and has 70 apple trees.
The other garden had been taken over by marquees for the Borders Book Festival which is being attended by many famous writers including Hilary Mantell, Joanna Lumley and Neil Oliver but I didn't see anyone famous.
Melrose is a very genteel town with smart houses and shops and teashops selling open sandwiches for £9 each! I found soup and roll for £3 then went for a walk by the river and through the town, very nice.
On to Innerleithen and Robert Smails printing works which is being run by the National Trust for Scotland as a working printers using traditional methods of compiling type and old style printing presses, I even got to Set some type and print my own bookmark, well worth a visit.
Good night.

Melrose Abbey from orchard.

Day 90.
Peebles.
Suddenly my odyssey is at an end. The weather yesterday scuppered my plan to visit the Lake of Menteith and finding myself in Stirling meant I was in striking distance of Edinburgh where Ian could meet me. So that is what has happened and here I am back where I started in Peebles, enjoying a glass of wine on the patio with the wood burning stove keeping us warm and the midges away.
This morning I was chatting with a charming American lady on a tour of Scotland with her daughter and we discussed the perils of driving in a foreign country and remembering which side of the road to be on.
I eventually found my way out of Stirling passing Plane castle (where I celebrated my 50th birthday) and coming to the House of the Binns the ancestoral home of the Dalyell family and was privileged to meet Tam himself who still lives there even though the house was given to the National Trust for Scotland in 1944. The house is splendid and is made more interesting by still being lived in. The view from the grounds over the Forth to Culross, Rosyth and the bridges is impressive.
Then on to Edinburgh where I cycled along with a chap from Teesdale who had cycled roundcthe 4 corners of Britain (Lands End, Dover, John O'Groats and Durness) covering about 60-70 miles a day, seriously hard work.
One last long uphill stretch through Morningside and I reached my destination at Hillend. Journey over.
No punctures in 2100 miles of cycling, no serious injuries or really dangerous incidents and mercifully no saddle-soreness. Relieved.
I shall keep the blog going to report on the progress (or lack of) towards producing a book about the trip, I have only been able to recount in the blog about half of the interesting places, people and things I have encountered, watch this space.
Good night.

Peacock at House of the Binns and Forth rail bridge from Queensferry.

Day 89.
Stirling.
A day of contrasts, the ride from Killin to Callander was a delight, the route was almost entirely on cycleways through forests and on old railways. After a 3 mile climb through forest where I encountered 2 red squirrels, to the top of Strathearn where the long descent on the old railway high along the hillside over bridges and viaducts before passing Lochearnhead and Balquidder. Here we find a sign to 'Rob Roy's grave' but on reading the information board it turns out to be almost certainly NOT the grave of Rob Roy, what a con!
The ride through Strathyre past loch Lubnaig through forest and more old railway track is great and so we come to Callander.
Here is a busy little town with lots of interest and excellent but overpriced fudge.
It now started to rain and the remainder of the ride was a miserable head down pedal along the A84 to Stirling.
The town did not look it's best in grey wet weather and a prolonged search for accommodation did not cheer me up.
However, after finding a nice b+b I went out for an excellent meal at an Australian themed bar (the seafood chowder was superb) in the company of a nephew who is doing his PhD at Stirling university.
Tomorrow I continue south, perhaps Edinburgh.
Good night.

Pics of 'Mum's tree' and loch Tay, Ardnamurchan lighthouse and Not Rob Roy's grave.

Day 88 part 2.
Killin.
After Mum died we had a lovely gathering at the Maclaren hall in Killin followed by an expedition up Sron a Clachain to leave her ashes overlooking the village and loch Tay.
Mum had for many years been teased by us about her love of chocolate cake so we now have a tradition of taking a piece of cake up the hill whenever we are in the area.
So after arriving in Oban I took the train to Crianlarach and cycled to Killin where after

Day 88.
On the ferry.
On my way to Oban having overestimated how long it would take cycle 14 miles (you would think I would know by now after 1990 miles!), so had an hour and a half to wait at Craignure.
My bedroom last night had a skylight above the bed so I was able to watch the sky and it did not really get properly dark  all night.

I have got a piece of rocky road to leave on Sron a Clachan for Mum , it travels better than chocolate sponge and will be a bit of a change (still chocolatey though).
Oban in view.
Good day.

Day 87.
Mull.
I woke bright and early,  packed the tent and cycled off via Glenborrowdale, Ardslignish and Kilchoan to the lighthouse at the most westerly point on mainland Britain where, astonishingly, there are traffic lights on the last bit of single track road.
More amazing views of islands and mountains,     then it was back to Kilchoan and the 11.45 ferry to Tobermory on Mull where I find the place inundated with cyclist taking part in some event so no b+b for me.
As my trip approaches it's end I am starting to really look forward to my own bed, the tent and sleeping bag are ok but I do not sleep well in them.
Tomorrow Oban and Killin.
Good day.

Loch Sunart and Ardnamurchan lighthouse.

Day 86.
Rum.
The warning signs were there, a builders truck and plumbers van boarding the ferry.
Rum was not the oasis of quiet and calm I had expected, building work was in full swing and continued into the evening when the lively younger people got in the party mood and the geese and oyster catchers (them again) kept up the cacophony through the night.
However, I had a lovely long walk across the island without seeing a single deer, goat or horse. Did see a newt and a dragonfly along with great views.
The campsite took on the air of a masked ball in the evening as we all donned nets and hats to protect us from the man eating midges.
Next morning onto the early ferry that took us round Canna, Muck and Eigg before landing us back in Mallaig for 2 pm. Besides seeing wonderful views all round had the excitement of seeing a whale,only 3 brief glipses of a large black hump and dorsal fin but definitely a whale.
I caught the train from Mallaig to Lochailort to save a bit of time and spent the journey chatting to two brothers who had spent a week walking from near Fort William over to Knoydart (accessible only by boat or on foot, they were seriously tough walkers and fishermen and with a great stories to tell.
From Lochailort I cycled over to Salen on Ardnamurchen and camped on the shores of Loch Sunart, a beautiful route to ride and camp but plagued again by midges.

Industrial archaeology on Rum and return to Mallaig passing the Skye ferry.

Day 85. Mallaig. I had heard how lovely Plockton is and was convinced it would be all hype but it really is a delightful place nestling in a lush wooded valley with a sheltered bay lined with traditional whitewashed cottages, if even has a railway station and a great many b+bs.
Bathed in sunlight it reminded me some Greek fishing villages I have been to (but without the blistering heat). I think I would like to return here one day and explore more thoroughly perhaps at the same time I complete some unfinished business with Beinn Eighe.
I cycled through Kyle of Lochalsh across the Skye bridge and down the Sleat to catch the ferry from Ardvasor to Mallaig. A glorious ride on a beautiful day, everywhere you look is a stunning view.
I camped on the beach at Morar and am now back in Mallaig waiting for the ferry to Rum.
Good day.

Pics of Beinn Eighe and Plockton.

Day 84 part 2. Plockton. Got a bit carried away today, not content with a fruitless 3 hour trek up a mountain (part of the Beinn Eighe massif) I set off pedalling and have ended up 50 miles further on in Plockton, said to be one of the prettiest seaside villages in Scotland. I haven't actually seen much of the village, just the bunkhouse at the station and the hotel where I have had a lovely meal. I met up with the cyclist I met yesterday and he had cycled round to Applecross and then over the pass of the cattle which reaches 2000 feet! I decided to take the easier more direct route from Sheildaig to Lochcarron. Tomorrow I head for Mallaig via Skye. Regret am still having trouble with pics. Sorry. Good night.

Day 84. Kinlochewe. I have been wrong twice in 20 hours. First I said in my last post that I was on the lower slopes of Liathach, well I wasn't, I was still on Beinn Eighe. Second, I thought I could ascend (how is this for some gaelic) Sgurra Ban by the Allt a Chuirn path. Well I couldn't. The path starts fine well made and gentle ascent. However, after about an hour of walking the path gets rougher and there is a scramble over a stream, then it gets really stony and eventually loose scree with very hard sharp stones. The last straw was having to start climbing and while I could have got up I doubted the wisdom of trying to come back down. So having got three quarters ofcthe way up the mountain I had to turn round a defeated man. The walk was a botanists dream, I don't know what the plants were but the variety of tiny alpine type flowers of blue, pink and purple was great and the regenerating forest of Scots pine and Birch is claiming back it's ancient territory. I didn't see any wild cats or pine martens but apparently they live hereabouts. Now to have some lunch and consider pedalling on towards Kyle of Lochalsh via Torridon. Good day.

Day 82. Poolewe. I have no wifi and this device is running very slowly so I shall be brief and there may be no pics. I didn't get the hostel to myself a splendid fellow (John) turned up ready for a few days walking in the area, we hada good long conversation about various things from Scotland to care of the elderly and dementia and various pointsin between and there was a excellent sunset to watch. The ride over to Poolewe was straight forward with the usual ups and downs, I caught up with a young lady who was doing a sponsored cycle ride to raise money for Cancer research and as seems to be the way when you meet a fellow peddler we compared routes, distances travelled and great inclines we have cycled up (it seems the road from Unapool to Lochinver sticks in the mind of everyone who cycles it). I spent a lovely afternoon at Inverewe gardens, they really are splendid and the Rhododendrons and Azealeas were in full glory. Camped at Poolewe. Day 83. Kinlochewe. Another good day cycling on good roads with steady climbs via Gairloch and Loch Maree to Kinlochewe where I am staying in another bunkhouse that I may have all to myself unless there are late arrivals. Met another cyclist who is going all round the coast of Britain in 3 months, he started in Norwich and is going counter clockwise so has a long way still to go. Loch Maree is beautiful and is home to some of the remnants of the ancient Caledonian forest that is now being protected and helped to grow again. I went for a walk on the Beinn Eighe trail that I last visited 40+ years ago (I remember finding a Paris metro ticketon that occasion!) It is a well managed area with good paths and information. I am writing this on the lower slopes of Liathich which is a big enticing looking mountain I may well decided to walk up it tomorrow. Midges have arrived although not too bad yet, I had to use my tick removing tweezers today so am glad I hadn't bought them unnecessarily. Good night.

Day 81. Camusnagaur. Awoke to bird song (including cuckoo) at 3 a.m. and it was already getting light. Lovely breakfast chatting to a fellow cyclist and our b+b hosts before setting off again bound for Ullapool and points south and west. Ullapool seems to have grown and smartened up since I was last here 7 years ago although I note that a Tesco store has appeared and poor old Costcutter has closed. I did some shopping before heading off into the wilds of Dundonnell. It was a steady climb up to Braemore junction where I stopped to view Corrieshallock gorge a truly vertigo inducing experience made more memorable by a party of European tourists who thought it amusing to make the 130 year old suspension bridge over the gorge to sway alarmingly and seemed happy to ignore the notice that no more than 6 people should be on the bridge at any one time. I had another 5 miles of steady ascent reaching 332 metres (over 1000 feet) the highest point I've been on the bike in Scotland. There followed a very pleasant 7 mile descent to my present location at Camusnagaur and the Sail Mhor croft hostel. I appear to have the place to myself so can sleep in any of 8 bunkbeds. I have had a walk up to the waterfalls at Ardessie which are pretty impressive, including having a huge boulder wedged above one of the falls. Tomorrow I head for the gardens at Inverewe which I last visited about 40 years ago. Good night. Corrieshallock gorge and view from Camusnagaur.

Day 80. Polbain. Some of you know I have a sore shoulder that has been troubling me for months making throwing and reaching uncomfortable, today I did a foolish thing in a moment of anger that caused searing pain (sympathy please) down my right arm that took 2 hours, 2 paracetamol, 2 ibuprofen, application of ibuprofen gel and a cold patch to ease it. Some pillock in a pickup couldn't wait a few seconds for me to reach a passing place and squeezed past on a narrow round with a big ditch on the side so I thumped the side of his truck, forgetting in my moment of ire that such an action causes me pain. For a while I thought I would not be able to continue but it has now eased and as long as I do not behave so recklessly again should be ok. After a wet night, today dawned bright and sunny so I was able to pack a dry tent, however, it soon clouded over and it has rained on and off all afternoon. I came by way of Lochinver, Inverkirkaig and Achiltibuie to Polbain and a b+b overlooking the Summer Isles (not looking summery tonight). There was a fascinating exhibition in the Coigach community hall about the men from this area that went to Wyoming in the early 20th century to establish sheep farming. Also, best chocolate cake ever at the Piping college cafe. I have realised that one of the things that makes Achmelvich so special is no dogs, they are not allowed on the campsite or beach and is lovely not having the peace disturbed by frantic calls from dog owners trying to keep their excitable pooch under any sort of control and of course no dog excrement to watch out for (plenty of the sheep kind though). Sorry to upset any dog lovers but my opinions on the subject are what they are. Pics of Achmelvich beach and Stac Pollaidh with gorse (which is in full bloom everywhere here). Good night.

Day 76. Tarbert by Scourie. I have not been able to access the internet for a few days so some catching up to be done. The walk to Sandwood bay is 4.5 miles of rather uninteresting moorland and lochs but is well worth the effort. Sandwood bay and my camp at Tarbert. The day had started badly, being the idiot I am ignored the irritating noise from the back of the bike until it suddenly got much worse and I discovered I had lost a bolt and another had sheered off from the back carrier. I was able to effect a temporary repair with cable ties and made it to Rhiconich where I met some better prepared cyclists who were able to remove the broken bolt and supply a new one. After my walk to Sandwood and back I then carried on to Tarbert, arriving after 10 p.m. but still in time to see the sunset over Handa Island. Tired, I slept well. Day 77. Scourie. I was very pleased I made the effort to get to Tarbert the previous evening, I was able to breakfast andpack up the tent on a fine morning and be first in the queue for the 9 a.m. ferry. Just as well because 2 minibuses turned up and the ferry is only a little inflatable. In any list of 'dream jobs' wildlife warden on a beautiful island must figure and the Handa gig must be one of the best. If you like sea birds this is the place to go, there are lots of all different species but veryfew Puffins sadly. I had a wonderful walk round the island I saw 2 lizards and 2 newts which thrilled me more than 10 000 guillemots andI saw a cuckoo being chased by enraged small birds. Incidently, Cuckoos are everywhere up here, I haveheard them all day every day for the past week and have seen them (rather than just heard) many times having never seen one before. Rock stack on Handa and the ferry back. I really treated myself back in Tarbert where there is an excellent restraunt serving local seafood and I had lobsterfor the first time in my life, very nice it was too and the restraunt staff didn't laugh at my desperate attemts to search out every last edible morsel. The hill out of Tarbert is very steep so being full of fine food pushed the bike out of the village and on to Scourie where I camped. Day 78. Achmelvich. What is it about bacon sandwiches? I stopped at Kylesku and some bikers were having bacon butties and I just had to have one, and it was good. The road from Unapool by Drumbeg, Clashnessie and Stoer is very hilly so lots of pushing up and hair-raising downs. Iwas enveloped in a cold mist for much of the way but as I approached my destination clear blue sky was restored (althugh the low cloud lurked in the distance). View from Stoer and sunset over Achmelvich beach. Achmelvich is one of my favourite places ever since coming here with my parents and some siblings over 40 years ago, the white sand beach, the green turf and grey limestone all in perfect proportion and a backdrop of stunning mountain scenery ... magical. Day 79. Lochinver. I will be brief, it is grey and drizzly, no scenery but I am happy to be in the best pie shop in the world (www.piesbypost.co.uk) and will shortly go to chocolate heaven, they know how to cope with lousy weather round here. Lochinver in the mist from the path to Achmelvich. Tomorrow I aim for Achiltibuie. Good day.

Day 75 part 3. What I find truly, midbogglingly, incredible is that I can stand in a field in the remote north west corner of Scotland and post this picture taken from Faraid Head and that people all over the world can see it. Astonishing isn't it. Good night. < a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EHdw5zQiYQAvBnGs-GCpbrIbs8Gkh9xZIJGcZXPDiBb0vqCiSFnOXYT6anMb56s2EinhXi9SYDhfX3ipc4BUhsRfVXefsHsTY_OoqFqI8ukTG4E3Qmj_cc5N_oR0dfFCTjIDTAMf69Ej/s1600/20130527_210021.jpg" imageanchor="1" >

Day 75 part two. Durness. Tiredness, the wind and the attractions of Durness persuaded me to tarry awhile here, I have found a nice cheap b+b so will head for Kinlochbervie tomorrow. I think I have got some pics uploaded of Ben Hope, me on top of Ben Hope and inside of Smoo cave. Good night.

Days 74 and 75. Durness. If someone a year ago had told me I would be capable of cycling 13 miles, climbing a 3000+ foot mountain then cycling another 13 miles before camping out on a windswept moor I would not have believed it. However, yesterday was such a splendid day and Ben Hope looked so enticing this is what I did. The climb is steep and unrelenting but is rewarded with the most astonishing views, I read you can see half of Scotland from the summit and that is possibly true, I could see to Orkney, Cape Wrath and mountains to the south stretching for miles including Foinaven and Suilven. I have just had a tour of Smoo cave and am contemplating staying in Durness for the night or pushing on to Kinlochbervie ready for the walk to Sandwood bay. Good day. Regret still don't seem to be able to upload photos too little memory apparently I shall have to seek advice.

Day 73 part 2. Altnaharra. It is difficult to imagine there is anywhere better to be than northern Scotland on a fine day. I was on the road for 8.30 and made good progress along largely quiet roads passing through Ardgay, Bonar Bridge, Lairg and Crask Inn. I had read about a fire at the visitor centre at the Falls of Shin and it is very sad to see the utter destruction of the centre and the smell of smoke still hangs round, I believe quite a number of people in the area are now out of work as a result, I hope it can soon be rebuilt. Lairg is a charming little town perched high up on the shores of Loch Shin and has a excellent visitor centre telling the story of the town and surrounding area. The climb to the Crask Inn is very long but so gradual it is not arduous, the Inn is very isolated and lacking in modern comforts but the lady who runs it emerges from the back when summoned by the bell on the bar and supplied me with cake and ginger beer for a mere £1.50. I was talking to a couple from South Africa who are touring the area and I was impressed by the gentleman's story of cycling from Montreal to New York through the tail end of a hurricane. I will not grumble about a bit of wind and rain for a day or two! I am staying in a log cabin behind the Altnaharra Hotel tonight, the hotel is rather posh (catering for hunting and fishing types) but also provides less salubrious accommodation for the likes of common cyclists like me. I have been allowed in the lounge to access the internet. Tomorrow I take the road to Hope and will assess whether or not an ascent of Ben Hope is a sensible option, if not I will aim for Durness but will camp out if I scale the most northerly Munroe (mountain over 3000 feet). Good night.

Day 73. Tain. Met up with my old friend and his cycling group last night for a meal at St Duthus Hotel and had a great evening swapping cycling and football stories. The chap I met yesterday is Dave Higgins and his website is www.coastingroundbritain.co.uk he has been joined by his brother who arrived in Tain at 01.30 due to train delays, they are all packed up and ready to go at 07.30 this morning each with a backpack weighing about 12-15 kg. Glad I am on my bike, wheels are a big help, wonderful invention. I am heading off into the northern wilds aiming for Altnaharra (the coldest place in Britain) where I am told there is no phone signal so may not post for a day or two. Good day. Having trouble with pics again, sorry.

Day 72. Tain. Sing, 'what a difference a day makes when the wind is light and clouds are higher and the sun is bright, I can see for miles and miles and miles.' Lovely ride over from noisy Dingwall (Ross County football club are relaying their pitch and start work at 7.00 and finish at 21.30) on a little road high up the hillside through patches of forest and shared by few cars.The view overto the Black Isle and beyond was super and at Invergordon was an enormous cruise liner (I am told it is the Queen Mary but it could be the Bootlebumtrinket for all I know). Didn't see much of Tain as I made straight for the campsite at Dornoch Firth where I met a chap who is walking round the coast of Britain, I will post a link to his website (I have left the address in my tent). Visited a charming little church that not only has a Pictish carved stone in the graveyard but a portable wooden pulpit! Have also met up with a friend who is cycling the route I am following but in the other direction so we are going to dine together tonight. Had trouble uploading pics yesterday, will try again now. Good night. Chanonry point, Campsite at Dornoch Firth, Edderston Curch and 9th century pictish carved stone.

Day 71. Dingwall. The showers were mercifully brief blown on by the stiff norwesterly but the rain still stung on my frozen cheeks. I had a little explore of the Black Isle (not an island atall) and stood on Chanonry Point in hope of seeing dolphins, lots of people with binoculars doing likewise but I hope they did better than me. Super little museum in Rosemarkie, Groam House with some really good carved stone Pictish art. Have now reached Dingwall which seems a nice little town, even has a 24 hour Tesco store so if the tent blows away in the night I know where to get food and shelter. Hope to meet a friend who is cycling down from Altnaharra tomorrow when we should both be in Tain. Good night.

Findhorn houses, Kessock Bridge, Culloden memorial. Day 70. North Kessock. Today, dear reader, I have failed to reach my intended destination. During the first part of my trip back in March I struggled against a cold relentless easterly wind, today I struggled against a cold north westerly wind and by the time I reached the Kessock bridge I was pretty fed up and very tired so have sought refuge, warmth and rest in a b+b at North Kessock overlooking the beautiful Beauly Firth on a lovely sunny but perishingly cold evening. I ask you again to consider birds, not the nocturnally noisy Oyster Catcher, but the oft overlooked Blackbird. I was joined for breakfast by the boldest male Blackbird I have ever encountered he hopped around as I ate my pain du chocolat (thanks Letty) and took morsels from the toe of my shoe. I have seen many birds on my travels Kingfisher, Yellowhammer, Goldfinch and Curlew to name a few but few bring as much pleasure as the good ole Blackbird with its fine song and fearless nature. My trip today took me by way of Forres and Nairn to the site of the battle of Culloden, where in April 1746 the exhausted and cold Jacobite army was routed in 90 minutes by the Government army, a bleak and windswept moor it is but the visitor centre is excellent giving lots of background information to the events leading up to the battle, well worth a visit. Inverness seems busy and a lot smarter than I remember it from my last visit but I had not time to stop having lingered so long at Culloden. So tomorrow I shall explore the Black Isle and report back. Good night.

Day 69. Findhorn. It was cold last night, a north westerly wind is blowing and there is much cloud However, undaunted I went into Forres and had a good look round, a ride to an old distillery (I was interested to find out the process of rendering water into something as awful as whisky is achieved) and walk up to the Nelson Tower, with wonderful views and even sunshine. This afternoon I have enjoyed the hospitality of friends from Yorkshire at Burghead and therefore the benefit of wifi to write this. It has been raining but I am now to return to Findhorn. I will endeavour to upload some pics. Good night. Pics of Duffus Castle, Lossiemouth Beach and Nelson Tower, Forres.