Monday, 15 April 2013

Day 32 Bornemouth (Tuckton actually). Still drying out, tent, bike cover and sleeping bag all hanging in the garage and clothing and gloves on racks and radiators. I was utterly soaked through yesterday. Thank you all for the recent comments they are appreciated and encouraging knowing I was not the only one getting rained on. Lazy today, accompanied my nephew to his tennis lesson that turned out not to be on but hit some tennis balls anyway then out for the day to Corfe Castle and Swanage. I remember many years ago my Dad sending a postcard of Corfe Castle from a field trip he was on and from then on wanted to visit the place, it took 45 years but I got there a few years ago and it was nice to return. There knights in armour and ladies in flowing dresses and headdresses recreating life in a 14th century castle (part of the National Trust's drive to get families in). Swanage is a lovely seaside town, facing east means it isn't the warmest but it is sheltered from the south westerly wind. We had a stroll along the beach and a cream tea before coming back via the ferry that runs from Studland to Sandbanks. This evening I went along to the local table tennis club for the over 55's and despite being probably the youngest there was outclassed in both ability and energy (think I might retire to Bournemouth it seems to have a revitalising effect on people). Tomorrow I shall be lazy again before moving on to Salisbury on Tuesday, I may well try and get back to Yorkshire by Saturday so I can get to hockey on Sunday but this will mean resorting to rail travel, we shall see. Good night.

Saturday, 13 April 2013

Day 31 Bournemouth. What a miserable day to be outside, it started Ok and after a hearty breakfast at the B+B in Shaftesbury I left that delightful town before 10 a.m. and enjoyed good progress for 3 miles in dry if misty conditions. As I neared the top of the first climb of the day zig zagging up the hill at Melbury Abbas the rain started. It stayed with me and got heavier as I pedalled resolutely onward to Tollard Royal, Cranbourne Chase (which is apparently very scenic but it was impossible to tell so dense was the mist and rain), Farnham (missing out on the delightfully named Sixpenny Handley) and on to Wimbourne Minster. I was so cold and wet by this point I went into Waitrose to get food, warmth and a quick change into some dry clothes. The local Police and motor traders were holding a joint road safety and economical car promotion (not sure what a 1987 Aston Martin DB7 was doing there but it looked very nice)and I did feel sorry for their somewhat bedraggled appearance and futile efforts to engage people more intent on getting somewhere warm and dry. If anything the rain and wind increased as I got near to the coast and I did myself no favours by missing the cycle route signs and added a few miles by going into Poole then overshooting Southbourne to get to my destination at the home of my Brother, Sister in Law and nephew. I was very wet, my 'waterproofs' weren't up to withstanding 5 hours of persistent heavy rain and I squelched into the house and dripped on the kitchen floor. It was a great relief to get a hot shower and into some dry clothes before an excellent meal. There are no pictures today, I did consider taking a pic of the stormy seas at Bournemouth (there were people surfing ....crazy) but did not want to risk water damage to my device. Perhaps some pics tomorrow. Good night.

Friday, 12 April 2013

Day 30 (I've checked as I had lost count). Shaftesbury. I have done it again and fallen for new places. Shaftesbury is a delightful town perched on a hill overlooking Blackmore Vale and the views are stunning. There is a really nice promenade walk to allow one to take in the view which this evening with the setting sun casting a warm light over the vale and surrounding hills, truly beautiful. Shaftesbury has a long and distinguished history and is where King Alfred established a nunnery for his daughter in 800 and the town grew around that and continued after the dissolution of the monasteries. The town has lots of little ginnels and steep lanes including the famous Gold Hill (see pic). I also fell for the little town of Bruton which I had never heard of before a, charming little place with a school founded in 1519 and once had an abbey bits of which remain most obviously the dovecote that stands on the hill above the town, reminiscent of Glastonbury(see pic). I found the ride today hard work my left knee and right hip were uncomfortable so I hope a good nights rest will set me up to cope with the wind and rain expected tomorrow as I head to Bournemouth. Good night. Pics of Bruton dovecote, Gold Hill, Sexey's Hospital, Bruton (also has streets called Lusty and Amor Barton, interesting theme).

Thursday, 11 April 2013

Days 26 and 27 No internet connectivity yesterday. I may have been a bit harsh on Bath, it has some very fine architecture and a wonderful walk around the hills overlooking the city and the b+b I stayed in (White Cottage) was very good. My ride over the Mendip Hills was lovely and well signed, it was a bit of a shock to have real hills again, I even had to push the bike up some. I went by Saltford and Stoke Chew to Priddy, an interesting little village with a long history nestling in a hollow on the south side of the Mendips. I had a ride over to Cheddar Gorge which is truly impressive but very much accessible only by motor vehicle, the road is narrow with no footpath but there is a good walk above the Gorge. It started raining just as left the Gorge and continued all night and into this morning. I spent yesterday evening and this evening in the Queen Victoria pub in Priddy, quite the best pub I have been too, friendly, warm, good food and a good selection of beers and ciders. Today I cycled round the Priddy Nine Barrows then had a walk round Ebbor Gorge above Wookey Hole, not as big and impressive as Cheddar but I had the place to myself and the only sound was birdsong. Suddenly there are insects I have been able supplement my diet by cycling with my mouth open, I have also found myself getting too hot for the first time on the trip. Wells is another interesting town steeped in all manner of history and a very good sweet shop with a surly assistant, the Cathedral is impressive and the parish church runs it close. Moving on to Glastonbury and the Tor with it's tower had to be done and is is certainly worthy of it's status, it was still a bit misty but the views were super and it certainly stands out from the levels around. The town of Glastonbury is just weird a strange mixture of traditional Somerset town and new age/alternative lifestyle vibe. Not sure who is ripping off who but anyone with an interest in crystals, meditation, yoga and any number of other practioners of 'ancient' or eastern roads to spiritual enlightenment are on hand to part you from your money (having first convinced you that material wealth is a barrier to enlightenment). I fear many vulnerable people are taken in by charlatans in Glastonbury, it certainly seems to have more than it's fair share of people living rough and with alcohol and mental illness issues. OK so I guess I had better leave the cosy warmth of the pub and get back to my cosy tent. Tomorrow, Shaftesbury. Good night.

Tuesday, 9 April 2013

Day 26 At last I have found a place I don't like. Bath. Now I fell out with Bath as soon as I arrived, I had fondly imagined something similar to Harrogate, classy but down to earth. Bath however is busy, noisy and tatty, I get the impression that the town has rested on it's regency heritage laurels for too long and takes it for granted that visitors will come no matter how outrageously expensive everything is or how unpleasant most of the town is. Obviously there are some very smart and impressive parts and while these have been well cared for the rest is a mess. On arriving in Bath I set about looking for a b+b but most had no vacancies and those that did have room were the most expensive I had found so far, even travelodge wanted £65, I went looking for a campsite and followed signs for 4miles out of town before turning back and eventually found a nice b+b at a price I could afford. My day started wet with the first proper rain since day 2 but it slowly improved as the day went on. My first stop of the day was West Kennet long barrow followed by Silbury Hill and Avebury all impressive and significant prehistoric sites built by some determined and industrious ancient Britons. Then by way of Devizes and the Kennet and Avon canal towpath to Bradford on Avon. All the way from Avebury to Bradford my journey was accompanied by the sound of powerful artillery explosions from Salisbury Plain, I wonder what they are practising for. At Devizes is Caen Hill locks on the canal, 29 locks raising the canal 290 feet in 2 miles (see pic) it makes Bingley5 rise look a bit tame. The ride along the canal was really good and make a delightful walk or ride at any time of year. I had thought I might spend 2 nights in Bath but have decided to move on to Wells tomorrow. Good night.

Monday, 8 April 2013

Day 25 Back to a wintery feel, not frosty but cold and grey. Up, packed and away for 9 this morning and made good progress until I missed a turn onto a bridleway so added an unnecessary 2 miles on the A420 followed by an adventure across field boundaries hoping no angry farmer appeared then another motorway junction to negotiate as I crossed the M4. Motorists seem determined to reach 70 mph before they even get on the slip road so I have to charge across the slip road the moment the slightest gap appears, thereafter it was a lovely ride along an old railway to Marleborough. I am on a forestry commision campsite in the Savenake Forest and having been for a walk there this afternoon can imagine it to be a mighty fine place in the summer. This time of year with the trees all bare and grey it is not the most thrilling of surroundings. Marleborough seems a pleasant enough place with some fine old buildings but I passed through a lovely village (oh gosh, another name I've forgotten) near Lambourn with a cottage needing a hair cut (see pic) and horses everywhere. There were a few fine looking horses out for exercise that were attracting some attention with people asking to take photos of one of the horses so imagine it was a significant horse (Shergar perhaps). Am now in search of food. Good night.

Sunday, 7 April 2013

Day 24 Oxford. I was expecting something very similar to Cambridge but Oxford feels bigger, brasher and strangely less confident, as if it feels it has to show off it's achievements whereas Cambridge is understated, comfortable with it's self. However, as always I find myself liking the place, although was disappointed to find the rather modest botanic gardens closed at 4pm but did discover a charming pub tucked away down a narrow alley (St Helen's Passage) called The Turf.This pub has been there since the 14th century and has been patronised by some very famous people through the centuries including Bill Clinton who apparently did not inhale canabis smoke in this very place. Today has been the warmest since I set off and has felt properly spring like and my journey has been accompanied by much birdsong, especially sky larks and buzzards (although they more squawk than sing). Following my Google map routetook me down some pretty rough bridleways and bumpy canal towpaths but very little main road so although it was slow it was a lovely ride. The campsite is nice but noisy being right next to the railway, there is a chap camping there that has been on the road by foot since 2004 and has camped here all through the winter, I am looking forward to chatting to him some more he must have many tales to tell. Last night after the disappointment of losing at hockey my cousin, her husband, daughter and I went out for excellent fish and chips at the pub in Tadmarten where there was also music from an excellent guitarist/singer which was a nice end to my very enjoyable stay at Sibford. Now I shall upload some pics of Oxford. Good night.